THE BEST WAY From LAX, United, American, Hawaiian and Continental have connecting service (change of plane) to Molokai. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $442.

WHERE TO STAY Molokai Sea Ranch, a luxury gated oceanfront home with a pool and Jacuzzi. The main house has five bedrooms, 4 1/2 bathrooms; the guest house has 2 1/2 bedrooms, two bathrooms. Nightly rate for the entire complex, $2,550. Information: Hawaii Hideaways, (866) 962-5642,

WHERE TO EAT Hula Shores, Hotel Molokai (above). The open-air seaside restaurant has a lively bar scene and a view to Lanai. Main dishes $14 to $22.
Paddler's Inn, 10 Mohala St., Kaunakakai; (808) 553-5256, This local favorite has old-Hawaii decor, including vintage photos of paddlers. The big menu has Hawaiian touches. Main dishes $11.50 to $20.
Maunaloa Room, the Lodge at Molokai Ranch (above). Upscale restaurant with main dishes from $24.40 to $39.50. I preferred the hotel's casual and less expensive Paniolo Lounge.
Kualapuu Cookhouse, 102 Farrington Ave., Kualapuu; (808) 567-9655. It's not much to look at, but the food is good. Nightly specials may include stuffed shrimp or rack of lamb. Main dishes $19 to $21.

TO LEARN MORE Molokai Visitors Assn., 2 Kamoi St., Suite 200, Kaunakakai; (808) 553-3876,